As you probably guessed by now I am a glue person. I can lace a piece of needlepoint, I have and I will again but sometimes I just have too many ornaments to finish at one time. See the carrots from a few years ago (https://sudukc.wordpress.com/2011/04/26/recipe-for-finishing-carrots/) that was a production. And truthfully I would much rather have my Grandchildren carry around their ornaments in their sticky little hands (although I would prefer they didn’t have sticky fingers…but you know what I mean). The look of delight and love in their eyes when they see their favorite ornament is worth far more than any museum could ever offer me for a piece of my needlepoint
Today is finishing square and rectangle ornaments…there are only two differences between round /oval ornaments and square/rectangle ornaments. You don’t have to clip curves, there are none but you do have to miter the corners. It’s a trade off and personally I think the round/oval is easier but I also like the look of the square/rectangle. And I really make more square ornaments than round ones…geometrics usually are square.
Again RULE ONE is having all materials at hand. I can’t emphasis this enough and trust me you will get frustrated if you have to stop and go to the craft store to purchase something (been there, bought that T-shirt many times).
Let’s get started.
Finishing: Square/rectangle ornaments using illustration board (glue method)
You will need:
Blocked ornament (all needlepoint needs to be blocked)
Backing material
Lining material if needed
Fleece: I use one about a 1/4 inch thick.
Illustration Board: medium weight
Glue: use archival save glue please
Clips to hold needlework and backing fabric
Sewing thread to match backing and complement needlework.
Beeswax
Sharp needle
Hanger (can use cording) another post…
Usual sewing supplies: pins, scissors, clips etc.
1.
I press the backing fabric to get the creases out, if lining ornament (you only need to line an ornament if you did an open background stitch or your design has large open areas (not stitched).
2. Measure ornament and cut out illustration board cutouts; cut two same size: one for needlepoint, second for backing. I usually make these a tad smaller than the measurement; this is not an exact measurement, it is really by trial and error method because it actually depends on how much padding you use. Example: needlepoint measures 3 inches x 3 inches, I make the illustration board about 2 7/8 inch by 2 7/8 inch.
Make sure these 2 cut outs are the same, trim if necessary. I mark mine with an up arrow so I know how they are to be put together.
3.Cut quilt batting; I usually use two for the back and three on the front. Number 1 is cut about 1/4 inch smaller than illustration board; number 2 is cut 1/4 inch smaller than first; and number 3 is cut a 1/4 inch smaller than number 2. You can do this as many times as you want, but four is about the most I’ve seen.
4.Cut backing fabric 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch larger than the illustration board.
5.Cut needlepoint 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch larger than the illustration board, trim corners diagonally. If using a lining for needlepoint cut this too. For ornaments on illustration board I use the same size lining fabric as needlepoint and you will aple the lining first and then repeat the same process for the needlework.
6.I glue the quilt batting to the illustration board with a dot of glue to hold in place. Start with smallest cut batting and largest batting goes on top.
At this point if your needlework need lining do lining first and then repeat with needlework. You do not 
need to finger press the lining fabric.
7.With wrong side of needlepoint (lining fabric) up, Finger press the corners and sides. Place illustration board over needlework.
8.Place a bead of glue on back side of illustration board at the corners. Start with the corners, turning them in to start mitered corner. I usually do one side and then the opposite side. It is important to keep design centered on the illustration board. Allow to set.
9.Run a small bead of glue along opposite edges of the illustration board and turn needlework bto the back , finish mitering the corners and secure in place with clips until set.
10.Repeat steps #6-7-8-9 with backing fabric
11.When set remove clips from needlepoint and backing illustration boards.
12.Attach purchased hanger if desired or can make from cording.
13.On wrong/back sides of illustration board place thin layer of glue over the backs of the illustration board;. Keep glue about 1/4 inch from edge as I don’t want any seeping out. Leave an opening to place the cording ends between the layers. Place two canvases together and secure with clips. Allow to dry completely.
14. Make cording and attach with pins. Hide one end in the opening left in Step 12 and when finished placing cording, hind second end.
15. With back side (backing fabric) toward you stitch cording to canvas with 1 strand of waxed thread. This thread should match the cording and if multi colored cord match fabric backing, whatever is most inconspicuous. Stitch through the cording, NOT over the cording. Stitching over the cording creates dimples in the cording that are not pretty.
Notice that I do not glue cording! I guess you could if you’re good but I personally like to sew my cording.
16. Enjoy
Lacing Method is the same except that you turn all to back and hold in place with clips or pins. Lacing should begin in the middle of a side and proceed to 1st miters. Stitch the miters as you go around.
Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have time to stitch today!
ttfn…sue
sudukc's needleart & other musings 
What illustration board do you use? I had no idea there were so many types!
You’re right, I actually have 3 different types. One I do not use, it is very heavy, will not flex and difficult to cut; another is thin and I will use it sometimes for light weight fabrics. My favorite is a middle weight, has a little flex to it and I can cut it with a pair of scissoes but usually use a rotary cutter or Exacto knife. I get it from a loca art supply store. I do not like the ones the craft stores carry and I am not sure they are archival safe.