Hanger in the top piece

Anne Stradal, ABS Designs ( http://www.absdesignsonline.com/) wrote me and asked about the hanger in the top. I do not do use this method but after looking at her web page (she does use this method)  I decided to add this amended post for those of  you who like this method. I will show you my method when I get the cording completed.

Do this before attaching top piece.

Corded Hanger insert in top: optional

Cording should be made now and hanger inserted into top before attaching top to roll-up. Cording should be longer than desired length so two knots may be made; one below and one above the center hole.

14-08-26 #1 top with holeUsing a large Chenille needle or awl to make a hole in the top of the cap piece; I would do this before covering the piece with fabric, it will make it easier to push cording through. Cover with fabric, run the
14-08-26 #2 top with cordingChenille needle again through the hole and fabric and then using a Chenille needle push two ends of the cording through the hole. Place a knot on the back side of the cap to hold cord in place. Also make a knot on the top of the cap close to the top, this will cover the hole and give a decorative finish. I would place a dab of glue under the knot to secure firmly.

Thank you for stopping by again this week, I hope you find time to stitch today, I’ll be making cording the rest of the week! ttfn…sue

I am all stuffed out

All rolled up and nowhere to go…Doesn’t seem like a month since I was last finishing but it was and I’m still not in the mood to get back to finishing. But today I read there are only 17 more Fridays until Christmas (don’t tell anyone, but Christmas is 17 weeks from Thursday). Scary isn’t it?

Anyway with the help of a couple good taped movies I made tops and bottoms for my nutcrackers and I stuffed and stuffed and stuffed some more.

14-08-25 #1 ill board and materialI make a template for the top and bottom of roll-up (each roll-up should be the same size top and bottom BUT every roll-up could be slightly larger or smaller than the next one… nothing is ever simple.)

I cover both the top and the
bottom at the same time but I sew all the bottoms on first. I cover my illustration board with a fabric to match the bottom of the roll-up. Cut the fabric 1/2 inch larger that illustration board and run a basting stitch around the edge of fabric and pull up and to secure around illustration board cutout. Do the top piece also, matching the fabric to the top of roll-up.

14-08-25 #2  attachI pin the bottom to the roll-up and using a waxed thread, ladder stitch the bottom to the roll-up. I leave a small opening to attach cording later.

If you want to make stand up’s only, I would weight with some kind of weight. You could use a nut from the hardware store, fishing weights, pennies, aquarium gravel (I wash and dry this to get the dust) or anything to give weight. I wrap the item in cotton batting or place in handmade muslin bag with drawstring and place in the bottom of the roll-up. I don’t weight mine but I stuff them so tightly that they are heavy enough to stand up.

14-08-25 #4a  fiberfill from bagBut I do stuff…I stuff and stuff and stuff some more. I use small pieces of Polyfill (http://www.joann.com/mountain-mist-fiberloft-premium-poly-stuffing-2lb/2179331.html).  I pull it apart and I poke the Polyfill in with a chop stick 14-08-25 #4b  fiberfill fluffed(anything long and firm will do as a poker…large knitting or crochet needle, dowel anything about the size of a pencil).  I like my pieces stuffed firmly so I stuff until I can stuff no more.

14-08-25 #4  fiberfill & pokerI pin the top to the roll up and ladder stitch it on leaving openings on two sides for the cording and hander.

 

 

 

 

 

14-08-25 #5 Betsy topYou can also be creative and slightly pad the top for a puffy effect. Betsy has a padded top. You place three pieces of batting under the material. The smallest piece goes next to the illustration board and the largest is on top. Don’t forget to cut the material to cover this a bit larger to accomadate the filling.

14-08-25 #6 TJTJ is a triangle top and bottom for different effect. I always saw his hat as a triangular shape. During colonial times the hats were called Tricornes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tricorne).  So I took some liberties and reversed my triangle so the flat part is in the front…it’s called creative license and it looks better too.

14-08-25 #7  ready for cordingAnd in a nut shell that’s where I am now…my fingers hurt from stuffing and sewing but I have 8 roll-ups ready for cording. I’m still deciding whether I am going to raid the work bench for an electric drill or just use the one I bought from a needlework shop…Kreinik sells one like mine (http://www.kreinik.com/shops/Kreinik-Custom-Corder-AMCDW-HD.html).

Thank you for stopping by, I hope you find time to stitch today! ttfn…sue

Roll up finishing has begun

My fingers hurt…first I pulled needlework then I stuck myself with pins and needles…I know two thing for sure:

#1. I will never be a professional finisher! I will be able to talk somewhat intelligently about it but I will not get better with practice. I do not enjoy it that much and I am a true believer of if you do it you should enjoy it. But I will have the feeling of accomplishment when summer is over; I will have Christmas ornaments for sons and grandchildren, and I get to share all my stuff at a guild meeting, an added bonus.

#2. I will never be a junkie that requires sharp objects….I knew there was a reason we use blunt needles!
14-07-16 RU-a TG trimBUT, I am progressing nicely…I have eight roll-ups I am finishing…so you may see different roll-ups for different stages. I am doing all the roll-up at the same
time so when I cut the canvas to within 1/2 inch of stitching, I cut all of them. My problem seems to be I can’t remember to take a picture of the same needlepoint.

14-07-16 RU-b TG fold & pinThen with my fabric creaser (saves the fingers and the nails) I mitered all the corners and then I turned the sides in and pined all.

Then the stitching began…I used a long (about the only good thing I can say is 18 inches is NOT the required length of thread for finishing), as long a thread as you can comfortably manage is a good length…and I have long arms. I used regular sewing thread that I doubled in the needle and ran several times through beeswax.

14-07-16 RU-e beeswaxBeeswax may be purchased at the notions counter of your local sewing center, You can purchase either just the beeswax or beeswax in a cute little holder. I have both, not because I needed a cute little container but because since I am a stitching collector, I needed one. I usual thread and knot (yes knots are acceptable in finishing) the doubled thread and then run it through the beeswax a couple times. I think beeswax keeps the thread from tangling as much and it adds strength to the thread.

14-07-16 RU-c sew sidesI start stitching in the middle of one side, using a running stitch to secure the turn back to the backside of the stitching. A running stitch catches a few of the needlework stitches, then comes up through the unstitched border, see picture.  I make sure I do 14-07-16 RU-d sew miternot go through to the front and only catch a few threads. I did not do this but you could cut a lightweight piece of pelon or muslin (white or natural) to fit the design area and then turned and pinned the extra canvas to the muslin; tacking stitches will then be secured to the muslin. I will do this to ornaments that have open stitching and need lining later. It is a good idea to line pieces with muslin if you are afraid you will disturb stitching on the front.

I stitch to a corner and then secure the corner together, making sure I have a flat turned corner and then continue around the roll-up securing the mitered corners as I go. End this thread.

14-07-16 RU-f rollup pinNext came the pining of the roll-ups. Ouch, I stuck myself several times…Okay I am klutzy but I don’t do this often. After I got them all pinned then with another waxed double thread to match the stitching (i.e. black for black; but if the design is mufti colored just picked a color that blended…if this stitch is done correctly you won’t see it anyway.) I probably used white for both of these.

I stitched the roll ups from the top down. There should have been no problem with one side being longer than another but should that problem arise make sure the top and bottom are even and then the excess should be fudged in the lower half of the design. If you are more than three or four threads off you may want to figure out why.

I just had a friend who forgot to put the border around one piece of a purse and this didn’t get noticed until the finisher was ready to put the purse together. Lucky, the finisher had left about 5/8 inch canvas around the piece because my friend has three rows of stitching to put around the piece. Opps…

14-07-16 RU-e beeswaxWith a waxed double thread (does not have to be that long, but long enough not to run out; I stitch the sides together with  a Ladder Stitch (because that is what the lady who taught me called it). I have also heard it called the Hidden 14-07-16 RU-g ladder stitch graphicApplique Stitch. I catch 2 or three canvas threads on one side and then 2-3 canvas 14-07-16 RU-g stitchthreads on the other side. About every 4-6 stitches I give the thread an extra tug to pull the sides and thread tightly together. I use this stitch to stitch the ends on also and anytime I am stitching a piece of needlework together or to a backing.

14-07-16 RU-h spoolBefore I go this time want to share this little tip I learned at the sewing store last week…If you have thread spools that still have that little cut in one side to secure the thread, mark the slit with a waterproof pen and you won’t be looking for it. I know the new spools have Kreinik type secure spools and I love them but I have old spools and some of the store brand threads have not gotten the updated spools.

After I get all these stitched up I’ll start the tops and bottoms and stuffing.

Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have time to stitch today! ttfn…sue

Blocking is not for sissies…

14-07-09 blocking board fullMoving right along I have taken the first of finishing off the blocking board and set the second set. I’m starting with roll-ups or nutcrackers as I have several. A couple roll-ups were already off the blocking board and that’s why I decided to start with these and my thinking was they will be all finished alike so I can get an assembly line going…not that they would be easiest. Probably would have been easier to start with simple shapes, squares and ovals but I usually don’t do things the simple way.
14-07-09 Blocking remove tape & selvagesBlocking… first and foremost is after you are finished stitching your needlework…REMOVE THE TAPE. I have a couple pieces I did not do this and I can feel the gummy on the canvas so I cut the canvas off. And this tape is the kind used by needlework shops…never use masking tape on your canvas it is even worse. And if you buy that canvas you can’t live without and are going to put it in your stash pile, do not have tape put on the canvas, wait until you are ready to stitch this piece to tape it. If your local shop won’t tape it for you or you don’t have a shop you can purchase artist tape in different widths from art supply stores; here’s an example (http://www.danielsmith.com/Item–i-768-020-003). One of these days when I start a new canvas I’ll show how to tape a canvas…but now, back to blocking.
Also if your canvas still has the selvage on it cut it off…hopefully this will still leave you room to block piece. If not, for now just clip through the selvage like you are clipping a curve, block and then remove. And shame on the designer or teacher who put her design too close to the selvage.
14-07-09 blocking nddlept st lineBlocking is hard on the fingers and the fingernails. You have to pull the canvas taut. I start to pin my needlepoint in the upper right corner. I pull the canvas taut and pin the top first (it does not matter whether you pin across the top or down the right side first whichever you prefer) The two things that are important are that you pull the canvas taut AND you pin in the same ditch, channel, between two parallel canvas threads (straight line) across the canvas. Next I pin down the right side, pulling taut and following a straight line. Next is the left side and then across the bottom Sometimes my bottom pining will be off a canvas thread or two, but what matters is that the canvas is square with no waves or puckers. Adjust pins by pulling canvas if you have waves or puckers.
14-07-09 blocking nddlept pulling & st lineTo dampen or not…NEVER if silk or overdyes are used. I have a steamer and a mister but unless badly distorted (you must not have used your stretcher bars…shame on you) I seldom use water on my needlework. If I do, I put a towel under the blocking board and I mist very very lightly and leave the blocking board lying flat. You are going to love this reasoning…it makes no sense but it makes me feel more secure…I think if the board is flat and the color is going to run it will run down and not 14-07-09 blocking nddleptsideways. I told you it makes no sense but it makes me feel better. The other thing I have found is if I dampen needlework I have to adjust blocking the second time.
Okay needlepoint is on the blocking board and I leave it for a day or two, or three, or more…I check it after 24 hours and if the needlework is puckering I adjust the tension by unpinning two sides (bottom and left) and re-pin pulling taut. I leave blocked needlework on the blocking board until I get ready to finish and trust me I have had needlework on a blocking board a long time.
Another thing I want to mention here is if you have a piece that is badly distorted, I recommend two things:
1. Have it professionally blocked
2. Immediately find someone who will lace it for framing.
And know that over time it is going to distort again…unless of course you are planning on putting it in a museum where they can climate control it and keep it from the real world. And never let someone talk you into glue for the back or using pelon on the back… needlepoint is stronger than both of these and you will just have a mess.
I have a few old pieces from my grandmother and mother stitched in Continental or half cross and they distort. I’m sure my mother paid good money in her day to have these pictures framed but about every three or four years I can’t stand the ripples anymore and I take them out of their frames, and re-pin them (they were pinned to corrugated cardboard but I changed that to artist board years ago.)
Anna Pearson’s blog this week is also about finishing: (http://anna-pearson-needlepoint.blogspot.com/2014/07/your-needlepoint-deserves-best.html) She states she never designs or suggests a project without know who and how it will be finished. I love to read posts from across the pond…the English have such a lovely way of putting everything.
Next time we start finishing the roll-ups. Until then…
Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have time to stitch today! ttfn…sue

Finally Some Things finished

I started finishing with four huck towels that have been stitched more years than I have had grandchildren. I loved doing these with all the women in my family. I have a drawer full of them already finished and use them…because I can’t take them with me and I know none of my children or grandchildren will want them. I’m saving them from a garage sale or worse the thrift market. And if I get the right out of the dryer I can hand press on counter and they require no iron. I have more huck toweling and after get some of this finishing out of the way may try again. Wish I could find linen huck towels, they are my favorite and colored huck toweling would be wonderful too; but all I can find now is white and it soils so quickly.

14-06-30 towels a pulled threadAnyway, I am starting my finishing with huck towels. First I pulled a thread at the bottom to make sure material was even…I would like to tell you this can instantly to me but truth is after I pined the first towel I realized the fabric was not even on the bottom…then it 14-06-30 towels b cut on pulled thread spacecame back to me that I had seen my mother pull a thread (more about that later) and even the fabric up. Then I cut on the pulled thread line with my pinking shears. I used the floats (these are the parallel vertical threads on huck toweling you use to make 14-06-30 towels c creased with toolthe designs) to turn a small hem and then a hem about 1 inch. I pinned the hems and made sure I had not slipped a thread or two by matching the ends.

I always have to think about hemming…most of my needlepoint stitches are 14-06-30 towels e ends matchcompleted by stitching diagonally or from left to right and hemstitching is executed from right to left. It’s one of those out of order sequences for me. Here’s my diagrams that will go in my finishing notebook…the small stitches have been 14-06-30 hem stitchingexaggerated, you really should not see the stitches. I just catch a few threads on the backside (top) and try never to go to the front of the fabric. (This is where those floats on huck toweling are good. Slide the needle about 1/4 inch left and come out very close to the turn back(1/4 inch) in the pinned 1 inch hem.

14-06-30 huck design cIt was fun to stitch these towels and remember the wonderful women who stitched these and gave me my love of needlework . I never appreciated how detailed my mother was in her craft work. She was an office manager and very left brained in her life, so it should have been no 14-06-30 huck design c2surprise to me she would be this way in her crafts too. Notice this towel with the overdyed thread all the threads have been pre-cut to keep the color in the proper areas. But on the small band on the other end she either forgot or accidentally stitched with the wrong end of the thread in the needle.

And this pink to red overdye probably drove her nuts because there was no pre-cutting, it was a random pull. Would not be surprised if my grandmother didn’t stitch this one, she was the 14-06-30 huck design acreative one in the family. The green one I may have done but I’m not sure, looks pretty complicated for a kid…but as many of these as we made I got pretty good. The yellow towel I know i stitched…I have a yellow ducky collection in my bathroom (surprise surprise 14-06-30 huck design bsurprise…another collection; but then my friend says you have three of a kind it is a collection…I have too many collections!)

When I went to hang three of the towels (pink ones) in the office bathroom I found one my mother had finished 14-06-30 huck design dand she open hem stitched it. Remember I told you I remember her pulling a thread or two? Well, maybe she was pulling threads to do an open hem stitch; but I think she pulled a thread to even the fabric too.  I was lucky to get mine hemmed, open hem stitching will have 14-06-30 huck with pulled hemto wait another day.  But now they are stitched hanging in my office bathroom, I can see them from my desk. They will get little or no use (I keep Viva towels in there for everyday use.) The towel wall is mostly decorative and I figure I will enjoy them the most. The bath towel in the center hanging on the men’s suit hanger my great Aunt Rose made and it hangs on a wooden hanger from a men’s clothing store my mother managed for years. Aunt Rose crocheted around the hand towel and then crocheted the basket right onto the towel…needless to say it has never been used. It is a treasure. Isn’t it fun to look at things that were made when life was slower and simpler; it brings back such fond memories of those that shaped who I am today.

14-06-30 huck hanging

Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have time to stitch today! ttfn…sue

New Book: finishing

I have my father to thank for my love of books; I never remember him not having a book to read in his position. Somewhere I have a bookmark where he wrote; “a good book is sometimes the best company to keep.”  AND, I have procrastination down to an art…but I learned this from my mother. She had to own every book, magazine and all the tools and supplies on a subject before she tried doing it. I remember tole painting…I didn’t think she would ever get around to putting brush to paint. After reading and taking several classes she tole painted a few pieces…she was really rather good at it too.

14-06-12_finishing101So, I stopped the finishing and read Pat’s book and it is a good one. Great advice and it is more than a finishing book, it has thoughts on the whole process of stitching. I loved that she said to read all the finishing instructions before starting and to adapt your own style of finishing. I think that’s great advice, what I might do to my piece you might not like on yours and I am not opposed to glue in certain instances and Pat doesn’t use glue.

The first third of the book is general information about needlework and finishing. I found it very interesting and also thought provoking. She takes about everything from clean hands; how to make a blocking board and how to make trims. She gives you suggestions for where to obtain or make those little things that will make finishing easier.

The major part of the book Pat walks you through how she finished several different pieces of needlework. I had a “AH-Ha” moment while reading one of these instructions for a finishing idea I’ve been mulling around in my head. And another I wish I had read before I did the Henny Penny Eyeglass case (https://sudukc.wordpress.com/2013/09/26/henny-penny/) last year…would have made finishing much easier.

This has long been the advice of needlepoint books to know what your needlepoint will be after it is stitched and if it requires fabric then purchase it and then pick your threads. This is great advice but we seldom do this, we just expect our finisher to find just the perfect match. And like Pat said you’re not likely to find much apple green when hunter green is all the rage.

Another thing we never think about when we take our stuff to the finisher is her costs. She has to buy fabric, remember decorator fabrics are 55 inches wide and the finisher has to buy the whole width; dress fabrics are only 44-45 inches wide but she still has to buy the width. And your green may not be my green even if we were in a class together and I may want my pillow 15 inches while 12 inches is your size. And in some decorator shops there is a yardage minimum unless you happen to find a remnant, but if you order that special fabric there is a minimum.  This drives the cost of your pillow up…finishers have to figure they may never use the rest of the fabric purchased for your pillow. And we haven’t even talked about the trims, ribbons and do-dads that make you needlework special. So please remember this the next time you wince at the cost of finishing what really goes into the cost of finishing that ornament, pillow or whatever…and it’s not just the cost of the materials but also the time and cost it took to look for that special fabric, ribbon, do-dad.

Pat also suggests you start a notebook with your own finishing hints; I have a 3 inch binder that I keep all sorts of finishing notes from ideas that appeal to me; helpful hints I have garnered from other needlework teachers; to finishing instructions I have written for other needlework projects. I’m sure I will need a larger notebook before I am finished.

Pat’s Bibliography and Sources is very good. She has far more books in her finishing library than I have in mine…but she finishes professionally and I am but a dabbler. This book also has possible design patterns with information on how to use.

I am not indorsing any one book but I will tell you I am glad I have the books I have in my library (See 2 posts back for list: https://sudukc.wordpress.com/2014/06/13/ufbsunfinished-but-stitched-becomes-pandoras-box/).  From Pat’s book, my newest addition, through Edie Weilemann, Sandy Higgins and Summer Truswell’s books (https://sudukc.wordpress.com/2014/06/13/ufbsunfinished-but-stitched-becomes-pandoras-box/), I will be reading the how to’s before I start a project. I also hope to take lots of pictures and do lots of notes and drawings for my notebook. I glad I have my old books too ( Pat calls them her: “Classic Books”) by Dorothy Burchette and  Katharine Ireys, they have some unusual finishing items that I may want to try , plus some helpful timeless hints.  And I am going to look through my Singer books for ideas, not to mention the interne.  And next time I am at the fabric sore I am going to look at the pattern books for ideas too, maybe someone has already invented my wheel… and of course the book section (this girl can never have too many  books…my family would disagree but they are wrong.) .

Reading Pat’s book has affirmed for me that I can do my own finishing; I may not be as fast or as good as the finisher who does this all the time, but I can do this. And it does not mean that I am not going to send needlepoint to the finisher, it just means I can do this and I can share my ideas with others.

So it is back to the sewing table; summer is here and I want to make lots of progress.

I’ll be back later in the week I finished stitching Betsy and I had some issues; not with the canvas Anne Stradal ABS Designs (http://www.absdesignsonline.com/ or http://thecapestitcher.blogspot.com/) paints a great canvas. I had a problem with a thread. Later this week.

Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have time to stitch today! I’ll be stitching some finishing. ttfn…sue

UFBS(UnFinished but Stitched) Supplies

I spent a couple hours making sure I had all the supplies I thought I might need for this massive project I am undertaking, but I know it is like any needlepoint project I will need something. Supplies vary from project to project but the following are some than I keep in my finishing box and general sewing box and as we go along this summer I will add to this list. By the way these tools are not listed in order of importance…but rather how I took the pictures. 14-06-18 supplies A Picture 1

1. Fabric pen and pencil: make sure they are fabric safe. I have two pencils one for light fabrics and one for dark fabrics.

2. Seam ripper: Never know when yu will need to frog stitch the finishing.

3. Hem gauge: I have a couple of these but this is my new fancy one.

4. Wood creaser and pointer…saves the nails.

5. Chop Sticks: I use these for stiffing stand-ups. And it is a good reason to eat oriental food…like I need a reason.

6. Beeswax: I beeswax every thread I finish with. Gives extra strength and also seems like it keeps the thread from twisting as much.

7. Pins: Make sure you have good sharp pins. 8. Good needles I use quilting needles and embroidery needles, if I need a needle with a larger eye I use Chenille needles. The size varies with the project, larger needles for larger projects; remember the larger the needles number the smaller the needle. There are great online resourses about needles; just Google “Hand sewing needle identification.”

Sewing machine needles will be on your list if you plan on doing any of your finishing with a sewing machine. Of course this assumes you have a sewing machine too.

9. Thimble: sometimes you need a good thimble and I like these two the best. Clover makes the tan leather one and I’m not sure where I got the other but I would bet at a quilting shop.

10. Scissors: can you ever have too many pair? I have this hierarchy system I use for larger scissors, especially sewing scissors. MY system works pretty well (now that I do not have small children in the house that will pick up the closest pair of scissor their little hands can find.) I change my scissors about every year and only when they are 50% off at local sewing store.

My system: Fabric scissors…cuts nothing but fabric! When these get dull I buy another pair and move this pair to the general sewing scissors stage.

Pinking shears: cuts NOTHING but fabric and not all fabrics just when I don’t want fabric to fray. I have had two pair of pinking shears in the last 40 years so that will give you an idea how particular I am about using these.

General sewing scissors: used to cut trims threads etc…Do not use for canvas or paper. I also have a couple pair of snips I keep by the sewing machine and in my finishing box.

General scissors move to the… Needlepoint scissor stage for cutting canvas only; they are not sharp enough for fabrics but not yet ready for paper. I think canvas dulls scissors and so I move these on down to the anything else category.

Anything else scissors: I cut paper patterns and small mat-board shapes. After this stage they are not much good but I do take them to general household use and even donate to the men’s workshop area. 14-06-18 supplies B Picture 2:

11. Pressing cloth: I have a silicone one, a lightweight fabric one and muslin for a third. Keeps ickies from the iron off your finished needlework.

12. Rulers: I have lots of these in various sizes. I use them to cut fabrics

13. Water bottle: I put fresh water in this before I use. Sometimes I have to spritz blocked needlepoint, but I never try to soak a needlepoint piece and always keep blocking board flat with an old towel underneath.

14. Iron: I never put water in my iron…think it clogs them up an over time makes funny stuff come out the steam holes. That being said you would think the sole plate of my iron would stay pretty clean but it does not, so that’s why I use a press cloth.

15. Silicone mat: this happens to be a hot pad holder but I use it to sit my hot iron on when I move it off the ironing board. Saves scorch marks. Other thinks I’ve thought of since I took the pictures.

16 Adjustable ironing board: mine is the same height as my sewing machine table and sits just to the left of the sewing table. I use it not only to press but assemble too.

17. Fray Check: never know when your going t need some.

18. Glue: White tacky archival safe.

19. Mat boards: I have a lightweight illustration boards. I have two weights, one is heavier than the other…but the lighter is not poster board.

20. Thread: I use regular thread or quilting thread

21. Fabrics: I have a pretty good supply of fabrics that I have amassed over the years.

22. Pelon: I have several weights, both fusible and plain.

23. Cotton Quilt batting: two weight, light and medium.

24. Aquarium gravel: I rinse this well and use in a plastic bag as weight for stand-ups. I have a friend who claims a roll of pennies ($1.00) or nickles ($2.00) is cheaper.

25. Hand drill: Kreinik makes one (http://www.kreinik.com/shops/Kreinik-Custom-Corder-AMCDW-HD.html); mine is red but the new one is black.

26. Fishing Weights: use to make cording.

I can think of other things but they are item specific like mat board is for ornaments and standups…so I’ll wait and add these if I use them.

I have started the finishing but am going to wait until next week to tell you about it because: a. this post is getting long and b. my book from Pat Mazu just arrived and I want to look it over.

Thank you for stopping by, I hope you have time to stitch today! I’ll be stitching some finishing. ttfn…sue